Thursday, 8 March 2012

The final curtain.

There is only one show I want to comment on from Milan Fashion Week. And that dear readers is Jil Sander. The first thing I noticed was the flowers...there was something almost funereal about them. As if not only was the farewell reflected in the collection, but the prop styling too. The bittersweet irony of it being one of Raf Simons' strongest collections was that it was to be the last... He wanted to embody a relationship in a collection. Sadly, from the last few looks it was clearly one that turned sour... Embodied with a delicate pastel beginning, a burst of passionate fiery red... Lastly black with flashes of shiny, hard PVC. I adored it all. I loved the delicate pinks, nudes, pale greys and coffee that kicked off the whole affair in simple, 1940s couture silhouettes (this was after all the final installment of his couture trilogy.) There were Raf-like flashes of silver silk on nude slips and bold panels of red on nude coloured dresses too. My favourite pieces were the Cristobal Balenciaga-esque cocoon coats clutched shut by models hands at their chests... The sudden dark ending with stunning black gowns brought it all to a sad, dramatic end. After hearing of the return of the brand's namesake to the fold, it's safe to say Raf will be a hard act to follow. In seven years he created a stunning, effortless and edgy side to the brand, making it a show to look forward to every season... And a brand I came to adore and covet once again.

all images courtesy of

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