Wednesday, 13 March 2013

A lesson in lovely...

When I grow up I want to be a Parisian. Or a fashion editor draped in it all. London collections are the aesthetic epitomy of me having a wild time in Harrods, and I often aspire to be as edgy as some of the collections it produces. 

The collections offered up at Paris Fashion Week represent how I want to look when I am a bit older, a bit richer and a little bit more fabulous....

First up is ChloƩ. Claire Waight Keller has come from Pringle and is quite rightly carrying on Phoebe Philo's legacy at the house. That legacy is of easy, polished chic, and not only that but she has created some fabuloius ways to celebrate the anniversary of the house. Last year there was the exhibition celebrating Gaby Aghion's house. Secondly she has re-issued some of the house's most iconic designs for all to get their hands on if you missed it the first time. This season she has basically created a collection epitomising how we should all look during the winter months. I would personally like some polkadot lace, a wool pinafore dress and the navy cape. With ChloƩ on the shop floors nobody has an excuse to look crap, you could buy the whole lot and look fabulous in any combination.

Next up in my list of highlights is Dior. I have been a Raf fan for many a year, especially in his own mens wear and at Jil Sander, with his appointment at Dior Raf has proved he is no one trick pony. Oh no! He has revived new life into the brand and brought his minmal aesthetic to a new market, and it works beautifully. This season he has managed to make monochrome far from dull, and with his re-working of the Bar jacket and the simplicity of the New Look era dressing simply feels fresh and cool in many respects. He has kept the womanly and chic silhouettes of Dior yesteryear, but updated them with his well known minimal approach. Add to this his innovative use of fabrics and cut and this is a very modern Dior woman he is designing for. And it works. In a few short season LVMH their owner company have noted that couture sales (a diviosion famous for its lack of commerciality and sales) have seen a 24% increase since he took over. After the shock departure of Galliano, and a wobbly moment under Bill Gaytten many were unsure about the future, but BOY DONE GOOD!

I am currently obsessed with Kenzo. Since Humberto Leon and Carol Kim (of Opening Ceremony fabulosity) took over a few seasons ago as Creative Directors the brand has become to "go-to" for hipsters and fashion editors alike. The price point ain't too bad and they are bashing out cute tees, sweaters and little knick knacks that make it accessible to many, as well as cooler separates and gowns in more luxurious fabrics. This collection appeared to be a mixture of eye symbols and the East. I smell a mixture of Evil Eyes and the Illuminati. I may just be reading into things. I actually don't care, I bloody loved the lot. I would like a round shouldered cropped jacket and a crazy matching shirt-and-trouser look too. Oh and I want a sweater too. Humberto and Carol have managed to make Kenzo as covetable as Opening Ceremony, making it cool in ways that you can't quite put your finger on. And that make you pass over your credit card. FAST. Call them what you want, but Humberto and Carol know how to make something cool.  

Now all I have to do is move to Paris and get me some show tickets...

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