FINALLY! Fashion month is here, I've only had to wait six bloody months to see how things will be shaping up for the next season coming... Plus Autumn/'Winter is always my favourite, I prefer shopping for knitwear, coats and the like. I like layering, and trousers, and always prefer what the shops and designers have on offer. I love the colour palettes and textures, I love the fur and the zillions of different coat styles to choose from. I just hate the weather.
Alas, the month kicks off with New York, and so far I have felt underwhelmed to say the least, I have struggled to pick my highlights so far, and sadly it's all my usual faves. There were no shock surprises, the first few shows I looked at all had the same navy, grey, khaki and black colour palette! And they all had a 'sports luxe' theme going on, oh and they ALL had jersey jackets with vertical stitch quilting!!! I thought I was suffering from premature dementia or was a little tired and was scrollling through the same show by accident, but no, it was all the fucking same. I am never a huge NYFW fan, but this season I almost didn't want to post, but the best are all to come I guess, as Lim, Preen and Marcy Marc havn't had a go yet. I am being a bit harsh... I do love the offerings of VB, Thakoon, Wang and Prabal Gurung but sadly that's all that lit my fire! Well here goes....
Mrs Beckham didn't fail to impress me, she always does. It was elegant, chic, and had just the right amount of menswear inspired tailoring and demi-tuxedo to boot. I like the balloon half sleeves, form fitting silhouettes and the fact there is just the right amount of sexy in each piece. She has started to edge into seperates too, and showing that she ain't no one trick pony. This thoroughbred can do tailored too! Once upon a time Mrs B was all about the body-con and not much else, now she is getting confident and dipping her toe into trends, and textures. And colour! I love what she does, mostly because it really isn't what I would wear and I admire it from afar, and hope that one day I will be that chic. Now, I just like looking a bit like a bag lady.
Oh Thakoon! How I love you... Just when he had us all tricked thinking he only did fancy, girly prints and dresses, and then he flips it all on its head and goes a bit gurney. I could see Courtney Love rocking the pretty lace and ponyskin at an after-party circa 1994. I just loved it all, even the mannish loafers and dodgy half-fringe that the models had going on... I loved thhat there were elements of mannish trousers and jumpers and lots of seductive lace panelling... it almost felt like half the models were cool boys and the rest were their quirky prom dates. I loved the belted fur chubbys in a mixture of colours and animal prints to add a 40s element to the proceedings, and they were juxtaposed with mannish shoes and lashings of delicate patchwork lace. I think I loved this show mostly because it was so un-Thakoon and so un-New York. Splendid.
Derek Lam's affering is one of my favourite collections so far, there was an element of a bohemian grown up here, he described his girl as "bohemian, in a more controlled way" and I totally agree. It's like boho for the Celine generation. There was patchwork leather, macrame and crochet, but add to that the clean lines of the navy and cream tee and the wide hem of the sailor trousers and the look came across as polished and sharpened. I loved the capes and the duffel coat adding sharp and pulled together edge to the hippie spirit that peeked through. I loved the way that it all became elegant, floor length and minimal towards the end as well, almost as if the hippie girl was losing her boho spirit and growing up. It was nice to see something different from everything else in New York so far...
Woweeee! Talk about a change in direction for Prabal Gurung... After making his name dressing starlets for the red carpet Mr Gurung took a drastic new direction this season, and it paid off. He paraded a tribe of Amazonian tribe girls down his catwalk to great effect, I loved the leather gladiators with fierce buckles and sharp nd fierce tailoring that his collections have lacked of late. I loved the intrcate beadwork and slashed gowns that presented a fearless Prabal woman. Some of the gowns looked a little lost mid-way through and felt a little like collection fillers, however the main point wasn't to be missed. And that was that Prabal Gurung is fast discovering himself as a designer and proving he is more than just a red carpet boy.
Images courtesy of style.com